Official Luthiers Forum!

I never used tape to cover the area where the bridge will be placed and finish over it. Depending on the tape of course but, spruce being as soft as it is, there's always a chance that when removing the tape you will take a splinter of spruce with it that could go beyond the bridge footprint (even if scribed). And using a solvent to remove the adhesive of the tape is just something I wouldn't do. This has the potential to soak into the top and be problematic in the bonding of the glue when attaching the bridge. And we all know that the glueing of the bridge is critical ! It can reak havoc to remove it and reglue it if not adhered correctly the first time. So, in the long run, the time I would spend removing the finish to apply the bridge is well worth it. This insures getting it right the first time, every time. Just my experience.

quote"I know some folks mask a little inside the bridge's footprint (say 1/16" or so), buff, then scribe around the actual outline and remove what little finish still needs removing. Sounds like a doable plan to me. The problem I see with taping off the entire bridge footprint is that you might still get a bit of a 'ridge' at the edge of tape and finish."End quote.

that's the way I was taught, and it works for me - of course, I've only built two guitars - but my luthier friend has built around 100 of them - that's the method he uses....

I`ve done it both ways before I knew better and now tape the bridge footprint and finish over the masking tape. I`ve never personally experienced a problem peeling the tape but I am extremly careful! It is virtually impossible to get the some luster against the bridge as you will have on the entire top if you glue it on first. I rubbed myself crazy trying to eliminate that "dull"liner around the bridge and never did. The ol` master Steve Kinnard showed me the "correct" way at least for me. I do not finish bridges because I`m pretty sure they would look crummy after a half dozen string changes but I do oil and buff them.